Three separate functions come to mind when discussing the merits of using a blind base cabinet in your kitchen. Blind Cabinets:
- facilitate a change in direction for a run of cabinets
- allows an adjustable footprint for a cleaner design
- gives additional storage space
First and foremost, a blind cabinet is a corner cabinet. In the case of a blind base, It is designed to fill the unusable “void” under a counter top corner.
Blind Base Cabinets don’t necessarily fill the corner void completely as the furthest (deepest) corner space is typically unreachable and therefor unusable by most users.
Its important to note that during cabinet installation, The blind base cabinet footprint size can be adjusted (usually 3 inches or more). See how the built in filler allows a range of movement prior to screwing the cabinet to the wall and adjacent cabinets. Its also important to note that the other side of the corner will require an additional filler to allow for proper door and drawer operation.
BBC42L 36Wx34.5Hx24D Left hand 1dr 1dw
This cabinet has one door, one drawer, standard depth(24″), standard height(34.5″) but an actual carcass length of only 36″. When installed it will have a minimum footprint of 42″ but could be “pulled” up to 45″ or any length in between. As an example, in your kitchen design you might need to fill a corner base run with precisely 97 3/4″ of cabinets. Using modular cabinetry (which usually runs in 3″ increments) you use a B18 + SB36 + BBC42. When you add up the linear inches of the three cabinets you get a total of 96″ so the BBC42 would be “pulled” to equal 43 3/4″ to avoid additional fill sticks.
Wall blind cabinets typically have the same features and functions of the blind base cabinets.
For more information on blind cabinets and their applications in kitchen design: https://rtacabinetmall.com
by Granger Davis
Cabinet Bumps have become very popular in today’s modern kitchen designs. By mixing modular cabinets with different heights and different depths, Kitchen designers are able to achieve a “staggered” look that can add a dramatic visual impact and give a humdrum kitchen an added layer of depth.
Wall Bump ups and Bump outs
There can be a few kitchen remodel pricing issues that should be pointed out. Keep in mind that when bumping out base cabinets that the counter top will need to be custom fitted. Most top fabricators will charge extra for the added depth and the required inside corner cuts that will need to be made.
sink base bump out with angle fluted fillers
When applying crown molding to a bumped up wall cabinet there is a significant amount of extra crown usage in the wall returns. There can also be issues with ending the lower level crown near a bumped up corner cabinet.
wall diagonal corner bumped out
Below is a diagram of how to achieve the illusion of a bumped out wall corner cabinet when only a standard depth cabinet is available from the distributor.
How to bump out a Wall Cornet Diagonal
An illustration of a nice way to end your crown molding “short” when using a bumped up wall corner cabinet. Without this, your crown molding may lean out enough to prevent the WDC door from opening properly. Safety Tip: Pay extra close attention when cutting tiny miters like this.
Cabinet Crown Molding with bumped cabinets
In short, these are just a few illustrations of kitchen cabinet bump ups and bump outs. Using these techniques can give your straight run design a dramatic focal point and add a shot of individual character to an otherwise standard kitchen layout.
by Granger Davis
Have you been told that dovetail joints for your cabinet drawers is a must? We’ve always been told that the most common kitchen cabinet component to fail is the drawer box. It does kind of make sense that drawers weighted with silverware or plates and used multiple times per day may need an extra strong joint for longevity.
As far as standard wooden cabinetry and carpentry are concerned, the dovetailed joint is certainly stronger than a screwed together butt joint and therefor much less likely to come apart. But is this overkill? Especially with the introduction of soft close drawer glides, glue coated spread staples and other engineering advances in cabinet construction. Is the added expense worth it? I, like most consumers, prefer the aesthetics of the stronger joints. I like the thought of proven strength. Although, most likely the actual cutting and joining of the joint is done by a machine, I like the look of craftsmanship and the old world feel. Below is a picture of a cheap drawer box.
cheap drawer box with butt joints
The drawer is made with vinyl wrapped 1/2″ particle board using simple butt joints that were stapled together over 30 years ago! Even the original felt cushions have long since worn away yet the joint shows no signs of stress and may have worked another 30 years without a hitch. Here is a picture of a ten year old rta cabinet drawer. Screwed together with a rabbit joint.
Again, probably never have a problem with its functionality. So, to sum it all up, a joint is a Joint and as long as it serves its purpose, we shouldn’t give it a second thought. When the cabinet sales people tell you that the expense of dovetailed drawer boxes is well worth it. You gotta ask yourself, do I really need it? Or just want it because somebody said so?
by Granger Davis
Hmmm…its been about 6 months since I wrote this article and I’ve had several people call to tell me that dovetail joints are the only way to go. I guess I’m lucky to never have a drawer fail but apparently the stapled together drawers do have a shorter life span. Multiple comments about drawers falling apart and drawer faces coming loose have made me rethink my position.